Distinguishing between British, Italian and American Suits: Everything You Need To Know

The world of menswear is an interesting yet complex realm, filled with tradition, innovation, and individual style. When it comes to tailoring, the three countries Britain, Italy, and the United States stand out as the “holy trinity.” Culture, history, and contemporary trends combined strongly influenced each country’s approach to menswear, and their suits are no exception.

British, Italian, and American suits are different, if not unique, in their fit, structure, and design. British suits are often structured with thick shoulder pads, while Italian suits are closely fitted with high armholes and minimal shoulder pads. American suits are more relaxed, with lighter shoulder pads and a more forgiving waistline. All these features make each suit style distinct and perfect for various body types and occasions.

Distinguishing between British, Italian, and American suits requires a keen eye and a profound knowledge of sartorial traditions. By understanding the differences between each style, you can make informed decisions about your wardrobe. So if you are already a seasoned suit expert or just a novice in the tailoring world, this guide will empower you to choose your next best suit for your style and personality.

Let’s dive in!

British suits

The foggy English is renowned for its rich history and traditions, also widely considered the birthplace of classic men’s suits. Ever since the 17th century under the reign of Charles II, British tailoring has developed over nearly 400 years and evolved into the refined style we know today. As a sartorialist, you are no stranger to the name Savile Row – the iconic London street, also home to legendary houses like Gieves & Hawkes, Henry Poole & Co, and Norton & Sons.

The British suits follow the evolution of Brish tailoring closely. Rooted in the rich heritage of British military tradition, the British suits exude a timeless elegance that captures every man’s attention. Its distinctive features go through centuries of refinement and make it stand out from other suit styles.

The British suit is known for its structured silhouette with a well-defined shoulder line, a fitted waist, and a tapered leg. This classic shape is achieved through careful tailoring techniques and the use of quality fabrics. For British tailors, only the finest materials sourced from English or Scottish mills are selected, such as wool, cashmere, or tweed. All these luxurious fabrics contribute to the comfort, durability, and aesthetics of the suit.

British suits often feature full or half-canvas construction, which involves reinforcing the jacket with layers of horsehair canvas. This technique provides structure, shape, and a luxurious drape. Padded shoulders are another noticeable pattern of British tailoring, adding a touch of formality to the suit. The padding can vary in thickness, depending on the desired structure level and the specific style. Besides, double vents at the back of the jacket are a common feature of British suits, allowing for easy movement and a tailored appearance.

That’s the suit jacket, what’s about the trousers? British suit trousers are typically tapered, with a slight narrowing towards the hem. This classic silhouette blends with the structured jacket and creates a streamlined look. 

In brief, to achieve timeless elegance and a detail-oriented look, British tailors employ several key techniques in their suits, including:

• High-quality fabrics (wool, cashmere, and tweed)
• Well-defined shoulder line
• Fitted waist
• Full or half-canvas construction
• Padded shoulders
• Double vents
• Tapered trousers, slightly narrow towards the hem

Italian suits

Italian tailoring is what made the term Made in Italy famous all over the world. Its history spans centuries, which dates back to when Pope Gregory XIII opened the first Università dei Sartori (university of tailors). Back then, the tailor’s main job was to patch up clothes. Today, Italian tailors have built a reputation for being stylish, sophisticated, with a certain je ne sais quoi.

Accordingly, Italian suits are among the most fashionable ones with a very fitted, modern, and stylish cut. This is greatly influenced by the Italian style, which is a seamless blend of British formality and Mediterranean casualness. White rooted in traditions, Italian suits have evolved to catch up with modern trends. A typical Italian suit boasts a sleek, fitted silhouette to show confidence and sophistication. Innovation tailoring techniques serve to refine the cut, thereby balancing between structure and comfort. This versatile approach got the attention of a wide range of men, especially the young ones seeking a stylish and timeless look.

Unlike their British counterparts, Italian suits are made from lighter fabrics like cotton and linen to fit in with the Mediterranean climate. The shoulders are less structured and the button stance is placed higher, which allows for relaxed aesthetics. Another prominent feature of Italian suits is the absence of their rear vents.

Moving onto the trousers! For a complete Italian look, the trousers are normally tailored with a slim fit and a comfortable leg opening. The length often ends at the ankle to create a clean look (and feel).

To summarize, Italian tailoring has a huge impact on Italian suits with its stylish and contemporary design. You may find these prominent features in a typical Italian suit:

• Light fabrics (sleek, modern cut)
• Sleek and modern cut
• Less structured shoulders
• High button stance
• No rear vents
• Slim-fit trousers

American suits

It is a big loss mentioning American suits without their ancestors — the sack suit! Introduced in the 1920s by the Brooks Brothers, the sack suit is a baggy and shapeless garment that was cheap to mass produce and fit a wide range of bodies. A relaxed silhouette, straight panels, and wide-leg trousers,… are what make these suits greatly contrast with the tailored elegance of British or Italian suiting.

At first, people saw the sack suit as a negative development (today we have the word for it — fast fashion!) However, this type of suit quickly gained popularity for its affordability and casual appeal. Ivy League college students are another contributing factor, as they embraced the sack suit to rebel against their fathers’ formal attire.

Even today, American suit styles retain many characteristics of the classic sack suit. Typical features of the American suit include the straight, looser fit and soft silhouette, together with light shoulder pads, loose sleeves, low armholes, no darts, and a nearly ubiquitous single-breast jacket and a single vent. While single-breasted jackets with two or three buttons are most common, double-breasted jackets were also popular in different periods.

The trousers are typically pleated, have a medium rise, and are cut for a more relaxed fit, often with a fuller leg. This style was particularly well-suited to the athletic builds and active lifestyles of Americans. In other words, the relaxed and casual nature of the American suit meant it would be less flattering and require the wearer to have a relatively good physique to pull it off. 

In summary, the key characteristics of the mass-produced, one-size-fit-all sack suits can still be found in modern American suits, but with certain modifications:

• Relaxed fit
• Loose sleeves, low armholes
• Light shoulder pads
• No darts
• Single vent
• Pleated trousers

British, Italian, or American Suit: Which One Is Best for You?

Even with all the provided information, choosing the right suit is still a daunting task. Worry not! This final section is dedicated to putting everything together and giving recommendations for your next suit.

Occasion

• Formal events: British suits, with their structured silhouette and luxurious fabrics, are the symbol of a formal outfit. They are perfect for black-tie events, weddings, and other high-profile occasions.
• Business meetings: Both British and Italian suits are suitable for business meetings. British suits offer a more conservative and traditional look, while Italian suits provide a more modern and stylish appearance.
• Casual settings: American suits, with their relaxed fit and comfortable fabrics, are ideal for casual settings such as weekend outings or informal work environments.

Time

• Daily wear: If you plan to wear a suit every day, an American suit is your go-to option thanks to its relaxed fit and softer fabrics

• Occasional wear: If you only wear a suit on certain occasions, a British or Italian suit is a greater choice. Their high-quality materials often make them last longer.

Body

• Athletic build: British suits, with their structured shoulders and fitted waist, are ideal for athletic builds. They accentuate the body’s natural shape and create a sleek silhouette.
• Slim build: Italian suits, with their slim fit and tapered legs, are perfect for slim builds. They create a streamlined look for the body.
• Average build: The descendant of sack suits a.k.a American suits, with their relaxed fit and comfortable fabrics, are suitable for most body types. They provide a comfortable and flattering fit without being too restrictive.

Personal style

• Traditional: British suits are the symbol of traditional style, as characterized by their classic cut, high-quality fabrics, and attention to detail.
• Modern: Italian suits are known for their modern and stylish designs, featuring innovative cuts, bold colors, and unique patterns.
• Casual: Comfortable, versatile, and perfect for daily wear — American suits are the most casual of the three!

Jacket details

• British: Structured silhouette, full or half-canvas construction, padded shoulders, double vents, and often feature subtle patterns like pinstripes or windowpane.
• Italian: Sleek, fitted silhouette, lighter fabrics, less structured shoulders, higher button stance, no rear vents, and often feature bold colors and patterns.
• American: Relaxed fit, soft silhouette, light shoulder pads, loose sleeves, low armholes, no darts, and a single-breasted jacket with a single vent.

Trouser details

• British: Tapered, slight narrowing towards the hem, creating a streamlined look.
• Italian: Slim fit, comfortable leg opening, and often ends at the ankle.
• American: Pleated, medium rise, relaxed fit, and often has a fuller leg.

Bonus tips

We would like to provide some extra suggestions to styling your British and Italian suit. To truly embody the essence of a British suit, pair it with classic colors like navy, charcoal, or gray. A crisp white or light pastel dress shirt also goes well with the suit, while a pair of British leather Oxford shoes will finalize the sophisticated look. For an Italian suit, elevate your style with accessories like a silk pocket square or a tie bar. Finish the look with a pair of Italian loafers, adding a touch of laid-back luxury.

Still Unsure about Which Suit Style Is Right for You?

Look no further than Cazo Tailor. Our expert tailors can help you choose the perfect suit to fit your style and body type. From classic British cuts to modern Italian designs, we offer a wide range of options to suit your taste.

Visit our store today at No. 23 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi to experience the difference of custom tailoring.